10 rules of style
why you should buy fewer items of good quality rather than many items of poor quality1.“Never in your dress altogether desert that taste which is general. The world considers eccentricity in great things, genius; in small things, folly” – Edward Bulwer-Lytton. For me, naturalness in dressing is absolutely the golden rule. It takes enormous doses of personality and taste to mould originality into elegance.
2.Don’t dress like a rock star if you aren’t one: choose with intelligence and imagination from the infinite possibilities that fashion offers, adapting it to your own appearance and needs, and independently create your own style.
3. There is not a more subtle form of diplomacy than there is in dressing: you can’t dress the same way to go to the office, do the shopping, go to an important business meeting or walk along the beach. I find that there’s a right sort of way to dress for every occasion, and that this helps one get through the day more successfully.
4. Clothes must accompany movement, not restrict it. You should be free and natural in whatever you wear.
5. I find a man who doesn’t wear socks very elegant; but above all, I detest short socks.
6. Be a free spirit, have the courage to dare: you have to enjoy what you wear.
7. The success of a single garment is measured in terms of what it does as a whole for the person, irrespective of the interest aroused by each of the items being worn.
8. Chic mixes up day and night, elegantly combining “de jour” and “de grand soir” items, seeming opposites that can be perfectly complementary: jeans and a smoking jacket, a dress shirt with a cashmere cardigan, patent-leather shoes with five-pocket denims.
9. Elegance is a question of details, and the detail par excellence is the accessory. Wearing the right accessory is essential. A pair of shoes, a belt, a beautiful watch – they all reflect the taste and elegance of the wearer. I can’t bear to see men in formal dress with sneakers, or wearing sandals in the office.
10. I would advise the fanatics of low-cost shopping to stop and reflect. They should buy fewer things but of higher quality, and see the purchase of a fine pair of shoes or jacket as a small investment that will yield far more significant results in the long run. Forget about all those ripped jeans and tattered T-shirts: clothes have a dignity of their own, and we would be lacking in dignity
ourselves to forget this.
The ultimate guide to laundry
So your clothes smell of petrol after dry cleaning and that ketchup stain is nowhere near gone. If you’re laundry service isn’t satisfying your cleaning needs, it’s about time you changed it. Esther Lennaerts, Executive Chairperson of Pressto dry cleaning gives us all the dirt on a good laundry service.
- Don’t send your driver or house help to the laundry. Going personally will enable you to point out the stains and tell them exactly what you need.
- A good dry cleaner should first check the garment pockets for change and other knick-knacks and for any rips and tears that need attention.
- Contrary to popular perception, dry cleaning is a very ‘wet’ process in which your garments are washed or cleaned in an organic solvent.
- Different stains require different stain removal solvents and hence the best cleaning method will vary on the fabric, colour and stains. Ideally, this should be a two-step process – first the stain removal and then cleaning it in a suitable solvent.
- Don’t get swayed by the dry cleaner’s claims of using patented or environment friendly cleaning solvents. Most don’t work. Perchloroethylene – popularly known as perc – is an accepted industry standard and the best cleaning solvent which doesn’t damage the fabrics.
- Make sure your dry cleaner changes the cleaning solvent after each wash cycle. If he doesn’t, you’re clothes are being cleaned in someone else’s dirty solvent.
- Pressing the garments is one of the most important steps in the dry cleaning process. If not done correctly, pressing can burn the fabric and damage your garment.
- If a dry cleaner makes a mistake and damages your garment it is your right to demand that he pays for it.
Taking care of your garments:
- Never store a garment with a stain because the stain will penetrate the fibre and become impossible to remove. It might even tear the fabric.
- In case of a red wine stain, just leave it as is and trust your laundry to remove it. If you do dab it (never rub) always hold a tissue under the garment to prevent the stain from passing on to the layer underneath.
- Remember, even champagne stains. It is an invisible stain but the sugar in it will become brown eventually.
- Before you store any of your garments, allow them to air for at least two hours to let the smells disperse. Always make sure to remove lint and dirt using a lint roller or brush.
- Always remove the plastic after laundry and store. This allows the fabric to breathe.
- Use only round hangers and keep your cupboard dry because humidity allows mildew and bacteria to breed.
guide to smart/casual
You might be the master of black tie, lounge suit and traditional dress codes. But what happens when the dreaded “smart / casual” appears on an invite for an important event? You don’t want to turn up looking like the scruffy cousin, but it would be even worse to be the guy who looks like he’s trying far too hard to impress.
Recently we caught up with one of India’s masters of the quirky, debonair look, Abhay Deol, who's also the new brand ambassador for Indian Terrain. Here are his tips on how to tackle a smart/casual dress code.
1 Be careful of wearing jeans – they can easily look too casual. Chinos are good, and go for a pattern like houndstooth that can look casual if needs be, but can easily be dressed up with a white shirt or a smart jacket.
2 If you are wearing jeans, always wear a smart jacket.
3 I wouldn’t wear trainers, but you could even carry off chappals if you project the right image. It depends a lot on the individual. Moccasins are a safe bet.
4 It’s the way you mix things with smart/casual that counts. Your look is casual, but it’s obvious that there was some thought behind it. Think about matching one colour if you can.
5 It’s good if you spark a debate with what you wear. Something that doesn’t conform with the rest of your outfit is what will add that extra edge. You can do that with your shoes, for example, to throw people off.
Some more rules of style
1. Keep it simple. Simplicity is clean, it’s fast and it can’t be misunderstood. Be your own stylist. Styling is all about rediscovering a comfort zone for yourself.
2. Absolute must-have pieces for next season are slim and close-to-the-body, single button jackets, used abundantly over tight-fitting shirts, lightweight pullovers and very narrow pants. Buy a plaid suit for sure.
3. Whenever you add something new to your wardrobe, make sure you remove something you probably haven’t worn at all or have worn to death.
4. The high streets always have the best-kept secrets. Buy your trend pieces from high-street brands, and keep the moolah to spend on non-seasonal luxury that can be passed on as heirlooms.
5. The magic formula of the 21st century is to keep the lines and volumes reduced to the absolute minimum mark. I’m attracted to the classicism and practicality this concept is derived from.
6. Tailored suits can be softened by adding more typically feminine touches such as bow ties instead of neckties, or even brightly coloured inners, interesting socks or a flower on your lapel.
7. The No 1 rule for dressing up is to be neat and tidy, with the overall effect being one of effortless style and sophistication, the polar opposite of bling.
8. Accessories, an absolute must for the coming winter, liven up both chic and casual wardrobes. Depending on the circumstances, choose between “cult” shoes with smooth uppers and ultra trendy high-top sneakers worn with a retro-style watch or a sporty chronograph to create a signature look.
9. Menswear is easier to stamp with your own individuality and it doesn’t date by the season. Black travels through decades as a free spirit, combining items in different styles. So, when buying expensive classics, stick to black – they may fade a bit, but will definitely not age.
10. When you go shopping, look for unusual textures and finishes. It’s advisable to update your wardrobe quarterly. One tip is to believe in the uniform aspect of menswear, especially at work – there will be fewer options and it’s unlikely that you will be confused.
How to wear collegiate
You don’t have to go the way of popped collars, cargo pants and roofies – frankly, those are only for frat parties.
Don’t over think it: just consider your personal style, don’t wear anything too baggy and ignore that persistent voice in your head that insists college means preppy – it doesn’t.
You just need to dress younger while still seeming mature. We show you how
You just need to dress younger while still seeming mature. We show you how
Look one: By day
Shirt
A brightly checked cotton shirt is very casual and clean-cut. Pair it with the right jacket, and voila! College dude.
Jacket
Teaming a ribbed jacket with your shirt and dark jeans creates a sophisticated look.
Jeans
It’s all about colour and fit here – consider a well-worn but slim-fitting pair.
Sneakers
High-tops are the perfect alternative to leather flip-fl ops.
A brightly checked cotton shirt is very casual and clean-cut. Pair it with the right jacket, and voila! College dude.
Jacket
Teaming a ribbed jacket with your shirt and dark jeans creates a sophisticated look.
Jeans
It’s all about colour and fit here – consider a well-worn but slim-fitting pair.
Sneakers
High-tops are the perfect alternative to leather flip-fl ops.
Look two: By night
Shirt
Your office shirt can easily transform for an evening out for drinks or dinner. Keep it simple and blue.
Jacket
A formal jacket goes well with an office shirt offset by a smart pair of jeans.
Jeans
White denim is tough to wear, so choose wisely and wear it with confidence.
Shoes
Wrap things up with a pair of muted sneakers – it’s cool and effortless.
Your office shirt can easily transform for an evening out for drinks or dinner. Keep it simple and blue.
Jacket
A formal jacket goes well with an office shirt offset by a smart pair of jeans.
Jeans
White denim is tough to wear, so choose wisely and wear it with confidence.
Shoes
Wrap things up with a pair of muted sneakers – it’s cool and effortless.
Choosing the perfect diamond
The four Cs
As with any tricky purchase, there’s a whole new vocabulary to learn. While every diamond is unique, to help standardise descriptions, a language known as the Four Cs was developed in 1939 – inspired by a De Beers assortment.
1. CUT: A well-cut diamond will reflect light within itself, from one facet to another. If a diamond is cut too deep or too shallow, light will be lost through the side or bottom - reducing its brilliance and, ultimately, its value.
Cut also refers to the shape of the diamond. Round, princess, oval, square, marquise, pear, emerald, or cushion-shaped are the most popular, but advancing technology continues to offer a larger variety of cuts to choose from.
GQ Tip: When choosing a diamond, hold it up to the light and look at the way the light dances around – it should throw out a rainbow of colours and display the diamond’s natural brilliance. Ask your jeweller to show you many different cuts and shapes.
2. CLARITY: Diamonds are given a clarity grade based on the degree to which features like scratches and nicks are visible at 10 times magnification and their number, type, colour, size and position. Diamonds without features are rarer and therefore more expensive, the rarest being referred to as ‘flawless’.
GQ Tip: View and try on diamonds of different clarities. In some diamonds, the internal features may be hidden by the setting and will not detract from a diamond’s overall beauty.
3. COLOUR: Fancy-coloured diamonds are extremely rare and highly treasured natural wonders. They can be found in shades of green, blue, yellow, orange, pink or – rarest of all – red. The value of coloured diamonds is determined by the intensity of the colour, and can significantly outweigh the effects of the other 4 Cs.
Variations in colour can be so slight that grading is done under controlled lighting. Colourless diamonds D, E and F are so similar that only an expert will be able to distinguish them. Near colourless G, H, I will show faint hints of yellow only when compared with diamonds of better colour, and diamonds graded J and K will show hints of yellow when set against a pure white background.
GQ Tip: When buying a diamond, consider the setting and the metal, as it can be used to accentuate or de-emphasise the colour. Make sure you try on the jewelry as the colour may look different when worn. If purchasing a loose diamond, carefully place the diamond on your hand and compare it with a similar diamond mounted in jewellery.
4. CARAT: Broadly speaking, the bigger the diamond, the rarer it is. That also means that a one carat diamond will be worth a great deal more than two 1/2 carat diamonds of equal colour, clarity and cut.
GQ Tip: A diamond can appear larger (or smaller) than its actual weight, depending on its cut. So don’t go immediately for the biggest-looking stone. Look at different designs and mountings as they can affect the appearance of the size of the diamond.
Best foot forward
So you’ve bought yourself some expensive shoes but you’re not really the kind of a guy who knows how to take care of them. From your leather loafers and cowboy boots to that to-die for pair of Nike sneakers, they all need some tender loving care.
Your shoes are much more than just something you wear to get around in, they’re a fashion accessory that makes a style statement too. And as the cliché goes, shoes maketh the man.
Vinnie Chadha of Reboot, The Shoe Laundry in Mumbai, gave us these tips on how to care for your much-loved pair.
Keep dry: Before you store your shoes, especially your leather and suede ones, make sure they are absolutely dry. Wet shoes are a breeding ground for infection-causing bacteria and fungi.
Soft touch: Always use a soft cloth to wipe shoes of any dust and to prevent scratches. If your shoes are dirty, use a soft-bristled brush to remove stubborn dirt.
Shape up: Shoes tend to lose shape and wrinkle with regular use. If you have a really expensive pair, make sure to keep them in shape with the use of shapers.
Regular care: Any pair of shoes that you use regularly needs to be cleaned and nourished every three weeks to a month. For formal leather shoes, cleaning and polishing is a must to maintain the richness of the leather and its shine.
Ask the experts: A professional shoe laundry can take care of your shoes, at a price of course. Ideally, such a service should protect shoes from fungus and provide colour nourishment and shine treatments for leather, suede and newbak leather.
How to wear a waistcoat
For a minute there it looked like the waistcoat was doomed to become a museum piece. It’s time to rescue it from the brink of extinction.
Look One: Formal
Thankfully, the three-piece suit is finally shedding its association with fat cat bankers and lawyers. With the right fit – slim rather than boxy or baggy – the look becomes natty, not stuffy, even with the classic banker’s chalk stripe.
Thankfully, the three-piece suit is finally shedding its association with fat cat bankers and lawyers. With the right fit – slim rather than boxy or baggy – the look becomes natty, not stuffy, even with the classic banker’s chalk stripe.
Shirt
Choose a softly striped white shirt: it’s a classic that works both at the office or at an evening event.
Choose a softly striped white shirt: it’s a classic that works both at the office or at an evening event.
Waistcoat
Keep your look monochromatic: your waistcoat and suit should be cut from the same cloth and match exactly.
Keep your look monochromatic: your waistcoat and suit should be cut from the same cloth and match exactly.
Suit
If you’re going to wear a dark three-piece suit, you may as well go the whole hog: get one with a subtle chalk-stripe pattern.
If you’re going to wear a dark three-piece suit, you may as well go the whole hog: get one with a subtle chalk-stripe pattern.
Shoes
Brogues: classic, simple, no fuss.
Brogues: classic, simple, no fuss.
Look Two: Casual
Match up a loose fitting waistcoat with an old shirt with its sleeves rolled up, and add a pair of distressed jeans. It’s a modern update of a traditional, almost scholarly look. Just because you’re dressing casually doesn’t mean you can’t still look dapper
Match up a loose fitting waistcoat with an old shirt with its sleeves rolled up, and add a pair of distressed jeans. It’s a modern update of a traditional, almost scholarly look. Just because you’re dressing casually doesn’t mean you can’t still look dapper
Shirt
Pick up a kurta shirt to keep things cool – it’s trendy yet relaxed. We like the contrasting cuff detail on this one.
Pick up a kurta shirt to keep things cool – it’s trendy yet relaxed. We like the contrasting cuff detail on this one.
Waistcoat
Keep it simple. Black or navy work especially well with grey. Get one with an adjustable waist cinch at the back for the right fit.
Keep it simple. Black or navy work especially well with grey. Get one with an adjustable waist cinch at the back for the right fit.
Denims
Go for a distressed pair to play down the waistcoat’s smartness.
Go for a distressed pair to play down the waistcoat’s smartness.
Sandals
Finish off with a pair of utility style sandals.
Finish off with a pair of utility style sandals.
How to wear nautical
You should try to spend at least some of your life lounging on a yacht. This is where those moneybag pals come in handy. Once you’ve found your sea legs, here’s what to wear on them.
Look One: DayShirt
Go for a preppy look, with gingham checks and rolled-up sleeves. It’s stylish but still casual enough for the beach
Shorts
Nothing looks better than a pair of well-fitted, crisp navy chinos, which can be dressed down or up
Belt
Use the belt to underline the nautical element – make it striped, in blue, white or red
Shoes
Lighten up – it’s summer, after all. Go for a pair in white with a dash of colour
Look Two: Evening
Jumper
A soft knit V-neck wards off evening sea breezes. We say stripes over solid-coloured trousers
Jacket
Keep it relaxed in a lightweight semi-formal style, like this crushed denim example
Trousers
There’s almost no point stepping on to a yacht if you’re not in white trousers
Shoes
They call them boat shoes for a reason. A brown pair is easy and versatile
Some TLC for your leather
Caught in an unexpected shower and soaked to the skin? Wait for a bit, use a towel or change into a fresh set of clothes and you’ll be dry as toast soon enough. If the same fate befell your expensive leather bag though, you might have cause to worry.
Wet leather can raise a stink – quite literally – and is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. You don’t want to be seen carrying a stink-raising, microbe infested leather bag no matter how on-trend or expensive it is.
Don’t throw it away just yet though. Dilip Kapur, president of Pondicherry-based luxury leather manufacturer Hidesign, told GQ how to deal with such a situation.
1 Pat your wet leather with a soft dry cloth.
2 Leave it in a warm dry place to dry naturally. Never leave your bag near a heater or in direct sunlight.
3 Use an appropriate leather cream /wax after drying your bag to restore the balance of natural oils and enhance the leather’s natural shine.
4 Always store your leather bag in a cloth bag to protect it from dust and moisture - especially in a humid environment.
5 Periodically take out your leather bag and air it - now there's another great reason to change your bag often.
Five monsoon must-haves
Five monsoon must-haves
Monsoon season may be drawing to a close, but if you've seen some of your favourites take a beating from the weather this year, here's how to replace them with tougher performers for next year.
JACKETS At work: A classic trench coat layers well over business casuals, and adds a stylish finish to a well-cut suit. Choose a pale over dark, and vice versa.
At play: Pair a hooded jacket with your casuals for the weekend. Dress it down with shorts, or wear it out at night with dark jeans and a tee.
BAGS
At work: Shelter your laptop in a waterproof or water-resistant casing when you run from your car to your office. Choose a neutral colour like grey, brown, or black, that won’t show wet spots.
At play: There’s no rule that you can’t use leather in the rain. Make sure you give it the proper care. Dry it in the shade and apply leather cream. Choose a bag with a waterproof lining to keep contents dry.
HATS
At work: Even if you’re under an umbrella, a fedora gives your look a jaunty but classic edge. With a suit and trench or a casual sports jacket, these hats never go out of style.
At play: Only the strongest of hair products can withstand monsoon humidity. If you don’t want to spend time styling, wear an urban cap to hide your hair and still look good. Pair it with a cotton sports jacket, or a plain t-shirt and jeans.
WATERPROOF WATCHES
At work: Give your work ensemble an edge with a classic luxury watch in a combination of gold and chrome, and a neutral dial that goes with any suit.
At play: A sleek watch with futuristic tones is the perfect casual wrist accessory for dull days.
UMBRELLAS
At work: A compact umbrella fits into your briefcase. The new, automatic retractable models snap open and close, leaving one hand free for that important work call.
At play: Stand apart from the crowd with a bright coloured umbrella that breaks the monotony of grey weekends
